EastGirlsWest

In the Phoenix airport. On a layover, nearing the end of a long, exhausting day of planes, trains and automobiles.

I decide to treat myself to frozen yogurt, and approach the TCBY counter. The man working there looks up at me with surprise and then something bordering recognition. I smile.

“Oh, hello!”

“Hi. Can I please have a small vanilla chocolate swirl?”

“Of course.” He starts to turn away, then pauses and looks at me again. “So, are you in town to shoot a film?”

“Excuse me?”

“Here, in Phoenix. Are you making a new movie?”

“Um, no. I’m not…”

“It’s okay. It’s cool. I know who you are.” He winks conspiratorially.

“Actually, I’m pretty sure you don’t.”

He puts my yogurt into a cup, then a spoon, and hands it to me. He’s smiling the whole time, pleased to be in on the secret of my identity, which is now a mystery to even me.

I pay. And put some change in the tip cup. Smile again.

“Thanks so much.”

“You too. Travel safe, and good luck with your next movie!”

From today’s New York Times:

The Supreme Court upheld the nationwide ban on a controversial abortion procedure Wednesday, handing abortion opponents the long-awaited victory they expected from a more conservative bench.

So, all you Ralph Nader voters out there: still glad you voted for him in 2000? Still think there’s “no difference” between Bush and Gore? Because I’m thinking maybe, just maybe, our friend Al might not have appointed two right-wing nut jobs to the Supreme Court.

If it wasn’t obvious before, it’s now perfectly clear that we can no longer take our reproductive rights for granted.

(Yesterday morning, I’m putting concealer on under my eyes.)

“Quick. Better put on your eye cream! Can’t leave the house without eye cream!”

“Listen. It’s concealer, and I use it to cover dark circles that are painfully obvious because I am so pale.”

“Here we go. Now you’ll start listing all the other reasons you aren’t in US magazine. Hey, I read somewhere the other day - and I swear it was the New York Times - that Cameron Diaz has REALLY bad skin.”

We’re currently 65 miles north of Phoenix, spending the night at a commune/colony/”urban laboratory” called Arcosanti. I can’t reallly begin to describe this place. The Bethrothed says it reminds him of the British sci-fi TV show Space: 1999. There is a 1970’s-vision-of-what-the-future-will-look-like vibe to this place, and the vaguely lunar landscape of the desert only adds to that impression. But throw in a bit of Mad Max, plus a healthy dash of good old fashioned hippie optimisim, and you start to get the idea.

We’re staying in one of Arcosanti’s few guest rooms - a bargain at $45 for two twin beds, a very simple bathroom, concrete floors and a stray cat that keeps strolling in the door. It looks like Bauhaus worker housing. We also have views of nothing but the hills and valleys of the Arizona desert, unlimited fresh air, total silence and a really cool one-of-a-kind mural on the ceiling of our room. Oh - and free wifi! It’s fast, too.

This whole crazy place is the invention and vision of 88-year-old Paolo Soleri. Although he lives in Scottsdale, Soleri still visits here once a week to lead his “School of Thought” lectures. Such lectures last about an hour, and are attended by workshop students who live on site (mandatory) and site visitors (optional). Soleri mutters into a microphone to a room of 20 people, expounding on his thoughts about religion and society and technology and everything else it’s possible to have an opinion on. With his Italian accent, he is difficult to understand. And what he’s talking about? Difficult to understand. He’s a man people seek wisdom from. Yet, I suspect they do not find it. Looking around Arcosanti, though, it’s hard not to have respect for the mind that dreamed all this up.

It’s East Girl Southwest all week. We’re traveling with our friends Dave and Gayle, and by Saturday we’ll have covered Phoenix, Sedona and Tucson. Plus this wacky place. I’m taking tons of photos, and there are more reports to come.